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PFAS in Cosmetics: Definition, Properties and Uses
- Jeanne Julé
- 21 hours ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 4 hours ago
PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances) are a family of chemical compounds used in many industrial sectors, including the cosmetic industry. Valued for their hydrophobic properties and chemical stability, they have long been integrated into makeup and skincare formulations. However, new regulations, particularly in France, are now calling their use into question.
Introduction
The global cosmetic industry, and particularly the French sector, stands at a crossroads. Long used for their exceptional sensory and technical properties, PFAS are now at the heart of a regulatory and media storm. With the enactment of French Law No. 2025-188 on February 27, 2025, France has positioned itself as a pioneer, prohibiting the manufacture and marketing of any cosmetic product containing these substances as of January 1, 2026.
To understand the details of the PFAS ban in France and its implementation schedule, consult our complete analysis on PFAS regulation.
For formulators and regulatory managers, understanding what these substances truly are is no longer optional, but a necessity for industrial survival. This technical guide details the chemical nature of cosmetic PFAS, their unique properties, and the reasons for their ubiquity in modern formulations.
What are PFAS?
The definition of PFAS has evolved with scientific understanding of these molecules. According to the OECD definition revised in 2021, which is the authoritative standard today, PFAS constitute a vast family of synthetic chemical compounds meeting a precise structural criterion:
"Any compound containing at least one fully fluorinated methyl (-CF3) or methylene (-CF2-) carbon atom."
This broad definition encompasses an immense variety of molecular structures, ranging from gases to solid polymers. The US EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) maintains a "master" list that accounted for up to 14,735 distinct chemical structures as of August 2022, while the OECD lists more than 4,000.
Why are PFAS so persistent?
Beyond their structural diversity, all PFAS share a fundamental characteristic: the presence of carbon-fluorine (C-F) bonds. In organic chemistry, this bond is unique.
PFAS chemical structure – carbon-fluorine bond
It is considered one of the strongest and most stable bonds in organic chemistry. The energy required to break this bond is extremely high (approximately 485 kJ/mol). This strength confers near-total inertia to fluorinated molecules.
Why are they called "Forever Chemicals"?
This is directly linked to their chemical stability. The C-F bond exceptionally resists:
Thermal degradation (heat);
Chemical degradation (acids, bases, oxidants);
Biological degradation (bacteria, enzymes).
This resistance, so sought after for product performance (hold, stability), becomes a major environmental problem once the product is rinsed off or discarded, as the molecule does not degrade naturally.
What types of PFAS exist?
PFAS can be classified into two main chemical families: non-polymer PFAS and polymer PFAS. This distinction is essential for understanding their properties, their uses in cosmetics, and the associated regulatory challenges.
PFAS chemical classification in cosmetics
Anthropogenic and industrial origin
It is crucial to note for environmental analysis that PFAS are of exclusively anthropogenic origin. Unlike certain heavy metals or hydrocarbons, they do not exist naturally in the environment.
Their industrial synthesis began in the 1950s, revolutionizing many industrial sectors (textiles, cookware, firefighting foams, electronics) thanks to their non-stick, waterproofing, and heat-resistant properties. The cosmetic industry adopted these technologies later to benefit from these same surface properties.
Why are PFAS used in cosmetics?
Although the cosmetic industry is not the largest user of PFAS by volume (compared to textiles or food packaging), their use within it is specific, technical, and high value-added.
An OECD study published in 2021 formally identified 36 specific PFAS used as ingredients in cosmetic formulations. These ingredients are not there by chance: they meet very strict performance specifications.
PFAS properties in cosmetics
The case of PTFE in cosmetics
Among all fluorinated substances, PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) is by far the most widespread in beauty products.
According to FDA (Food and Drug Administration) data, PTFE represents approximately 28.1% of cosmetic products containing declared PFAS. It appears as a white micronized powder.
In a compact powder or foundation, PTFE is not used for its "frying pan" non-stick properties, but for its texture. It provides a silky touch, unique "slip" (slip agent), and chemical inertia that prevents unwanted interactions between other formula ingredients.
Quelles fonctions techniques apportent les PFAS ?
Why do formulators struggle so much to replace these ingredients? Because they offer a combination of properties difficult to match with natural ingredients or classic silicones:
Hydrophobicity and Lipophobicity: This is the "magic" property of PFAS. They repel both water and fatty substances (sebum, oils). This is the key to "Long Lasting" makeup that resists perspiration and does not migrate throughout the day.
Film-forming agents: They create a continuous, flexible, and resistant film on the skin or lashes, essential for waterproof mascaras.
Texture and slip agents: They significantly improve "skin feel" (sensory touch) and facilitate uniform product application.
Oxygen vectors: Certain specific compounds like Perfluorodecalin have the physical capacity to dissolve gases like oxygen. They are used in "anti-aging" or revitalizing treatments to oxygenate tissues.
Most used PFAS in cosmetics (INCI)
To audit your formulas, here are the 5 INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names to look for first:
Most common PFAS used in cosmetics
In which products are PFAS found?
PFAS usage is not uniform across the cosmetic aisle. It is massively concentrated in technical makeup (complexion, eyes, lips) and certain specific skincare products.
For a detailed analysis of PFAS present in each product category, consult our article: Which PFAS are found in cosmetic products?
Cosmetic products containing PFAS
Conclusion: understanding PFAS to anticipate regulation
PFAS have offered the cosmetic industry high-performance technical solutions for decades, enabling the emergence of waterproof and long-wear products highly appreciated by consumers. However, their environmental persistence and associated toxicological risks (notably those highlighted by IARC in 2023) make their substitution inevitable.
A fine understanding of their chemistry and functions is the first step towards successful reformulation. The challenge for formulators is not just to remove an ingredient, but to recreate a formulary architecture capable of offering that famous hydrophobicity/lipophobicity without resorting to the carbon-fluorine bond.
To go further in your compliance process:
How to detect PFAS in a cosmetic product (LC-MS/MS and Total Fluorine analytical methods)
How to bring a cosmetic product into compliance with the PFAS ban (5-step action plan)
FAQ : Questions fréquentes sur les PFAS en cosmétique
Which PFAS are used in cosmetics?
The most frequent are PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene), Perfluorodecalin, Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane, Perfluorononyl Dimethicone, and Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoroethyl PEG Phosphate. The OECD has identified 36 specific PFAS used in cosmetic formulations.
Why are PFAS banned in cosmetics?
Due to their environmental persistence (they do not degrade naturally) and associated toxicological risks. The IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer) classified PFOA as a proven carcinogen in 2023. These substances accumulate in the environment and the food chain.
In which cosmetic products are PFAS found?
Primarily in long-wear makeup: waterproof mascaras, long-wear foundations, matte liquid lipsticks, compact and loose powders, as well as certain "oxygenating" serums. PTFE represents approximately 28.1% of cosmetic products containing PFAS.
How to recognize a PFAS on an INCI list?
Look for terms containing "fluoro", "perfluoro", or "PTFE" in the ingredient list. The most common INCI names are PTFE, Perfluorodecalin, and Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane.
Why is the carbon-fluorine bond so stable?
The C-F bond is one of the strongest bonds in organic chemistry (485 kJ/mol of energy required to break it). This exceptional stability confers PFAS with resistance to thermal, chemical, and biological degradation, hence their nickname "forever chemicals".
What are the alternatives to PFAS in cosmetics?
Main alternatives include silicones (dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate), plant-based bio-alkanes, natural waxes (carnauba, beeswax), and non-fluorinated synthetic polymers. However, none replicate exactly all properties of PFAS.
Need a compliance audit?
The 2026 deadline is already here. Prepare your transition to PFAS-free cosmetics.
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